Chandratal, what a ride! 14 Kms from Batal and 4300m ASL this was the highlight of our trip. We woke up early that morning in our hotel in Kaza as we were aiming to be on Kunzum Pass around noon. There were heavy clouds in that direction and none of us wanted to get caught in bad weather.
We headed off towards Losar and were slowed down by the condition of the road. Over the 6 years of traveling on these roads, I did not realize I would complain. The road is really bad, and I am complaining! We were ready for this situation though and we had time on our side, making the ride very enjoyable for us. At Losar, We had the biggest breakfast ever and saddled up for Kunzum. We wanted to get as many photos as possible and judging by the road, we would have to work for every kilometer.
The check post at Losar has shifted outside the village, towards Kunzum and we made our customary entry in the Police logs. Of Course, Morgan had to find his passport which was at the bottom of his bag. All said and done, we started the ascent to Kunzum and the weather cleared. Although it was windy, we had no problems with the weather from that point onwards. Kunzum is a beautiful Pass. It is 4590m ASL and is the connecting pass between Manali and Kaza. Apart from the altitude, it is easy to go up and down it. We rode through it around noon, took a nice long break at the temple and then made our way for the 14 Km ride to Chandra Tal.
A few Kms below the pass and just before Batal, you will see a small board that points to the turn off for Chandra Tal. And the as you keep riding it surpasses anything you have ever seen. The beauty of this place is beyond my telling. Only way to experience it is to go there. There are tent accommodations available here. From 500 Rs a night to 2500 Rs, you have a wide choice. Don’t be in a rush to select one, see them all and then make your decision. We took the one furthest from the bigger camping areas and enjoyed the hospitality of the Nepali boy running the show as a one man army. The temperatures can drop below zero at night, so be prepared and the altitude will play a major role in the way you sleep. Make sure you have stocked up on batteries for your headlamp, a good book and some snacks to deal with insomnia.
This lake itself is a few KMs North of the camp sites. You have to walk the last Kilometer or so as it is a protected wetland. The river is roaring away in a steep gorge East of you and the giant Kunzum range is on your West and the beautiful Chandratal is right in front of you. It is breathtaking. Standing on the hill with all the small lakelets visible in a panoramic extravaganza around you. There is no camera that is good enough to replicate and no writer with enough words to describe it. You just have had to be there.