Riding in India

Chandratal, what a ride! 14 Kms from Batal and 4300m ASL this was the highlight of our trip. We woke up early that morning in our hotel in Kaza as we were aiming to be on Kunzum Pass around noon. There were heavy clouds in that direction and none of us wanted to get caught in bad weather.

We headed off towards Losar and were slowed down by the condition of the road. Over the 6 years of traveling on these roads, I did not realize I would complain. The road is really bad, and I am complaining! We were ready for this situation though and we had time on our side, making the ride very enjoyable for us. At Losar, We had the biggest breakfast ever and saddled up for Kunzum. We wanted to get as many photos as possible and judging by the road, we would have to work for every kilometer.

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The 14 Km ride to Chandratal

The check post at Losar has shifted outside the village, towards Kunzum and we made our customary entry in the Police logs. Of Course, Morgan had to find his passport which was at the bottom of his bag. All said and done, we started the ascent to Kunzum and the weather cleared. Although it was windy, we had no problems with the weather from that point onwards. Kunzum is a beautiful Pass. It is 4590m ASL and is the connecting pass between Manali and Kaza. Apart from the altitude, it is easy to go up and down it. We rode through it around noon, took a nice long break at the temple and then made our way for the 14 Km ride to Chandra Tal.

A few Kms below the pass and just before Batal, you will see a small board that points to the turn off for Chandra Tal. And the as you keep riding it surpasses anything you have ever seen. The beauty of this place is beyond my telling. Only way to experience it is to go there. There are tent accommodations available here. From 500 Rs a night to 2500 Rs, you have a wide choice. Don’t be in a rush to select one, see them all and then make your decision. We took the one furthest from the bigger camping areas and enjoyed the hospitality of the Nepali boy running the show as a one man army. The temperatures can drop below zero at night, so be prepared and the altitude will play a major role in the way you sleep. Make sure you have stocked up on batteries for your headlamp, a good book and some snacks to deal with insomnia.

This lake itself is a few KMs North of the camp sites. You have to walk the last Kilometer or so as it is a protected wetland. The river is roaring away in a steep gorge East of you and the giant Kunzum range is on your West and the beautiful Chandratal is right in front of you. It is breathtaking. Standing on the hill with all the small lakelets visible in a panoramic extravaganza around you. There is no camera that is good enough to replicate and no writer with enough words to describe it. You just have had to be there.

A better Transmission

  • Restoring a motorcycle to its former glory is a hard job for Royal Enfield mechanics in small towns. Firsly, lack of precision machinery, secondly, scarcity of spare parts and thirdly, lack of information.

The key to a Royal Enfield working to its potential in the Himalayas is a strong transmission. I am talking about pre UCE engines and mostly 90s and 80s Standards and Electras. We were really struggling for a bit as every motorcycle we had was just a little under powered. On a straight road, it seems fine and as the slopes get steeper, old women on foot started passing us by.

Royal Enfield Amchissimo 500cc Clutch plates, motorcycle tours Dharamshala

  • After trying out a few options, we came across a spare set of Machissimo 500cc clutch plates. These are a set of 5, thin clutch plates, and they fit most clutch housings perfectly. The difference is amazing! You get a good pick up, doesn’t burn out on steep hills and has a long life.

Riding to Leh 2015

Riding to Leh is a task undertaken by thousands every season. You will see every form of transportation involved in this once in a lifetime journey making their way to Ladakh on the Leh Highway. Some do it regularly and most do it at least once. We do it regularly on a bunch of different Royal Enfield motorcycles and as many times as we can!

Leh was a small encampment at the crossroads of history which became a kingdom and a rich one at that. Being an oasis in the middle of such a harsh terrain, it still has the attraction of that city over the mountains, in the middle of nowhere, a place you have to travel hard to reach. It comes with the risks of weather and terrain that can be fatal. However well prepared you are, there is always that freak weather, that chance you will break down far away from help that makes the journey exciting.

Add to this the edgy experience of motorcycles. Riding is always risky and thrilling. Riders the world over look for the roads that will challenge their skills and their endurance. Well, the road to Leh is all that and more. It has more variables than you can calculate and makes it a Mecca for riders.

“THE EDGE, there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.”  – Hunter S ThompsonRiding to Leh Royal Enfield, Ladakh, Sarchu, Leh Road. Motorcycle tour

Apart from the terror and beauty of nature are the host of dodgy travel agents, bike rentals and so called guides that lead the unsuspecting tourist looking for a bargain into the wild. Here I am talking only of riding to Ladakh on Royal Enfields only. You every so often see the group of riders on rental bikes making it up the Baralacha Pass or the gigantic Tanglang La and you wonder if there is a God for just these riders. Those motorcycles are dying! They are just about to give up the ghost but manage to live on for a few more kilometers by sheer will of the rider and some divine intervention.

May it be a Government run bus service or the best vehicle money can buy, the Leh road is a must do and for Royal Enfield riders, it is a mandatory requirement to earn respect as a rider. Good luck to all the fellow riders going up this year, ride safe and be prepared.

Riding to Leh – Sach Pass

The Sach Pass is a little used Pass connecting Chamba Valley to Pangi Valley, and eventually to Ladakh. Pangi being a remote valley that is created by the Bhaga river connecting Keylong on the Leh road to the East and Kishtwar to the West. This route makes access to Kashmir and the road to Leh shorter for people travelling from Dharamsala. For now, it being little known and hard to access, it is one of the last few good rides.

The trip from Dharamsala to Bairagarh is 228 Kms. Being a good road most of the way, it is a good ride for Day 1, we left at 07.00 AM and reached Bairagarh by 03.00 PM. You get good roads most of the way and after you cross Chamba, it is a two lane mountain road that will take you all the way to Bairagarh 2200m.

From Dharmsala, you take the road going to pathankot all the way to Nurpur, you will see the turn off for Dalhousie/Chamba, take that road going North. It winds and splits before Chuari, take the road going to Chuari pass called Jot. Cross over and ride towards Chamba city. 3 Kms short is a place called Sultanpur, where you will cross the river and head towards Tissa and finally Bairagarh.

The trip is not long, but it is a little challenging. First, you have to ensure the Pass has been cleared of snow. In mid June the BRO starts clearing the road and depending upon the damage done and the weather they usually open the road in a couple of weeks. Last year, the clearing lasted until early July. So you need to check first.

NOTE: Sultanpur is the last station for fueling this side of the valley, so fill up as you will only get fuel from locals in small village/towns (if you are lucky) and for a higher price. Then head up North until a place called Koti where you take a right to go towards Tissa. The gorge gets narrow and the road winds up into the mountains.

Spend the night, recover and at Sunrise, it is time to make a move. The next target is Satrundi where there is a check post manned by the Himachal Police. The road between Bairagarh and Satrundi is beautiful. It is the ascent to the high mountain pass and you go through thick forests, waterfalls and finally you cross 3000m and the terrain becomes Alpine. It took us 2.5 Hours to ride the 27 Kms to Sach Pass (4305m/14,500 Ft). The road is still under construction and is impossible to ride fast without losing most of your motorcycle to the road!

On the way to Ladakh, Sach Pass 4300m

As usual, Himachal Police are friendly and helpful and after 5 chais each and entering your vehicle and license details, and you are ready to go. Don’t be in a hurry because from this point,  the road is rough. Since the stone has been laid as a base for the future road, it is a little tough on the motorcycle and the rider. But the beauty of the terrain is amazing. At the top of the pass you pass some permanent ice and more often that not, get rewarded by a flurry. As you cross over the Pass, the road is nightmarish as it carries on as a half made road all the way to Killar. The road from Killar is prone to landslides, which all of Pangi is. You can stop at Killar, Cherry or where we stopped at a place called Ajog, 20 Kms ahead of Killar. There is a natural water spring here, which was sought after by kings, the camping is awesome.

Riding to Leh - Sach Pass

Next day, a few hours ride is Udaipur and the Trilokinath Temple. The road from Udaipur is amazing! After the ride from hell, you get to open throttle all the way to Keylong, passing apple orchards and large farmed lands. We got delayed by landslides and reached this area late in the evening. Once this road connecting Leh and Kashmir is complete, the journey will be really easy from Dharamshala.

We meet the road to Leh at Keylong. The fuel station at Tandi will be the only fuel station you will see until Leh, so fill up and get some to spare if you can. Between Keylong and Jispa, I would definitely stay at Jispa at either of the places there. Padma Guest House being the best in my opinion. Hot and cold water, good food, tents with bathrooms at 2500 twin sharing. It is a good deal. Also it is a good idea to break journey and take 2 nights here to acclimatize, repair your bikes and get ready for the toughest part ahead. You will be heading out and crossing 4 major passes to reach Leh, so be prepared and rest up.

The road at Jispa

Spiti-Leh Motorcycle Tour

This is an epic ride that has been launched at the request of a few riders. Our Ride Captain, Shankar Nath, came up with this kick ass itinerary and it became an instant hit. Because it is so good, we are opening this itinerary for more riders to join in this epic ride.

Dhankar Monastery, Spiti
Dhankar Monastery, Spiti

This 14 day ride through the Himalayas combines Spiti and Ladakh as well as covers the beautiful heritage spots in Nalagarh and West of Shimla on the Hindustan-Tibet road. Starting from Nalagarh, we will wind our way along the Hindustan-Tibet Road and work our way into the Spiti Valley. Using Kunzum Pass, we will join the Leh Road and make our way to Leh after conquering BaralachaLa, LachungLa , Nakila and TanglangLa. Leh is a beautiful city to explore and then we head up North to the Nubra Valley and take the Wari la into Pangong Lake and back to Leh where we will fly out back to Delhi.


This is a high-end motorcycle tour that means the best bikes, Ride Captain, mechanics and hotels for us on this tour. Are top class!

We have a few seats left for this season, sign up now!! Email or phone us and we will sign you up in a jiff.

Get all the details of the package here »

Ladakh Motorcycle Tour

The Route:

Ladakh Mountain Tour Map

When you plan a motorcycle tour in the Himalayas, the unpredictable is always there, in fact it enhances the adventure. Having said that, sometimes the unpredictable might turn bad and that is when being prepared and having a trusty team behind you can turn the worst situation around.

We specialise in paying attention to the finer details on every tour and with our golden route for this season want to take you to the most remarkable and hidden spots of Ladakh with our training and support. Our mountain tour is created to let the group enjoy the adrenaline of the riding to the max,without having to worry so much about those practical things because we have your back.


Let’s start with the incredible feeling of switching off from your everyday life for 14 days! Holding on tight to the handlebars of a 500cc Royal Enfield, you travel into a land that is hard to describe. Only after a while on the road do you realize where you are, what you’ve left behind and the crazy things you are embarking on. Your life is transformed and you start to believe the unbelievable as it passes in front of your eyes.

DCIM102GOPROThe value of the experience is immeasurable and no doubt it’s the mixture of the awesome mountains, the back roads, the heights, and the danger that makes this journey a must-do for every adventure-lover!


Leaving from the green mountains of the Kangra Valley in Dharamsala, our route takes the road to the holy lake of Tso Pema and its charming town. After this, the North is our destination and we reach Manali, by which time you will be confident and warm enough for what is next. Now everything becomes harder and more amazing. Rohtang pass at 3978mts, is the first and sometimes one of the hardest passes you will cross with unpredictable weather and heavy traffic. We descend then ascend, a day’s rest will take place in the small village of Jispa.

IMG_5631 Now we are into the the great region of Ladakh, crossing from the green valleys of the Bhaga River climbing into the high desert mountain plains of the Rupshu valley. Baralacha Pass at 5890mts provides a challenging experience for even the most seasoned of riders, Nakeela and Lachulung La come after.We climb up to the More plains using the Gata Loops (21 switchbacks) and we end our day’s ride in Tso Kar, the beautiful fluctuating salt lake in Rapshu. From here the panorama is breathtaking. Leh and Lamayuru will unveil the wonderful people, culture, monasteries and architecture of Ladakh. You will feel like you’re on the roof of the world when you conquer Khardung La at 5352mts, discover the amazing Nubra valley and the Diskit monastery, and ride one of the best roads for its natural beauty to the world famous Pangong Lake!

Enquire for the full itinerary Now!

What are the dates for this tour?

June 28 – July 11

July 25 – August 7

August 26 – Spetember 8

Whats the price of the Tour?

Join one of our tour dates for only 1.25.000 INR! for riders and 1.00.000 INR for pillion passengers!

Get in contact with us Now!IMG_0587

What’s included in this price and what’s not? 

Our groups are covered for all transport (including a flight back to Delhi from Leh), all meals and snacks, motorbikes, petrol, repairs, entrances and fees, excellent accommodation in either hotel or luxury tents and professional crew support: captain , assistant, mechanic, first aider and a supporting car for luggage  will come with the group. Personal insurance and alcoholic beverages are not included.IMG_0514

What do I need to have?

What you need for the tour is a valid driver’s license and previous motorbike experience.

Can I make my own route?

Yes we can help you organise your own ride for a minimum group of six riders. Please write to us if you’re planning a road trip with your group.

Don’t miss the unmissable, Join us!

Pimp My Bike – Denis Part 4


Denis’s bike being pimp’d is a done deal!, The black and white stripes make this bike altogether striking.The team has completely restored the engine, added a 5-disc clutch system for more pick up, and the breaking system and electric cabling was also newly installed. Denis took his 500cc for a test trip around the mountains of Dharamsala and is happy and satisfied with the job done. He mentioned that he has never felt the bike so powerful before!



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