Riding in India

Chandratal, what a ride! 14 Kms from Batal and 4300m ASL this was the highlight of our trip. We woke up early that morning in our hotel in Kaza as we were aiming to be on Kunzum Pass around noon. There were heavy clouds in that direction and none of us wanted to get caught in bad weather.

We headed off towards Losar and were slowed down by the condition of the road. Over the 6 years of traveling on these roads, I did not realize I would complain. The road is really bad, and I am complaining! We were ready for this situation though and we had time on our side, making the ride very enjoyable for us. At Losar, We had the biggest breakfast ever and saddled up for Kunzum. We wanted to get as many photos as possible and judging by the road, we would have to work for every kilometer.

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The 14 Km ride to Chandratal

The check post at Losar has shifted outside the village, towards Kunzum and we made our customary entry in the Police logs. Of Course, Morgan had to find his passport which was at the bottom of his bag. All said and done, we started the ascent to Kunzum and the weather cleared. Although it was windy, we had no problems with the weather from that point onwards. Kunzum is a beautiful Pass. It is 4590m ASL and is the connecting pass between Manali and Kaza. Apart from the altitude, it is easy to go up and down it. We rode through it around noon, took a nice long break at the temple and then made our way for the 14 Km ride to Chandra Tal.

A few Kms below the pass and just before Batal, you will see a small board that points to the turn off for Chandra Tal. And the as you keep riding it surpasses anything you have ever seen. The beauty of this place is beyond my telling. Only way to experience it is to go there. There are tent accommodations available here. From 500 Rs a night to 2500 Rs, you have a wide choice. Don’t be in a rush to select one, see them all and then make your decision. We took the one furthest from the bigger camping areas and enjoyed the hospitality of the Nepali boy running the show as a one man army. The temperatures can drop below zero at night, so be prepared and the altitude will play a major role in the way you sleep. Make sure you have stocked up on batteries for your headlamp, a good book and some snacks to deal with insomnia.

This lake itself is a few KMs North of the camp sites. You have to walk the last Kilometer or so as it is a protected wetland. The river is roaring away in a steep gorge East of you and the giant Kunzum range is on your West and the beautiful Chandratal is right in front of you. It is breathtaking. Standing on the hill with all the small lakelets visible in a panoramic extravaganza around you. There is no camera that is good enough to replicate and no writer with enough words to describe it. You just have had to be there.

Riding to Spiti

The Spiti Valley is a desert mountain valley located high in the Himalayas in the north-eastern part of Himachal Pradesh. The name “Spiti” means “The Middle Land”, i.e. the land between Tibet and India. The valley and surrounding region is one of the least populated regions in India and is the gateway to the northernmost reaches of the nation.


Lahaul and Spiti is surrounded by high mountain ranges. The Rohtang Pass, at 13,054 feet (3,979 m), separates Lahaul and Spiti from the Kullu Valley. Lahaul and Spiti are cut off from each other by the higher Kunzum Pass, at 15,059 feet (4,590 m). A road connects the two divisions, but is cut off frequently in winter and spring due to heavy snow. The valley is likewise cut off from the north up to eight months of the year by heavy snowfall. A southern route to India proper is periodically closed for brief periods in the winter storms of November through June, but road access is usually restored a few days after storms end via Shimla and the Sutlej in the Kinnaur District.

Riding to Leh, Sarchu, Royal Enfields

That is what Wiki says about Spiti, we are headed out in a few days on some custom painted, fully restored Royal Enfields we have restored in our garage in Dharamshala. Our friends Rahul Lal and Rohit Lal are coming along for their yearly epic ride with us and its going to be fun!!!

Female Rider, Royal Enfield, Dharamshala, India, Ladakh

Name: Monique Rhodes

Gender: Female last time I looked

Age: can’t remember

I have been riding since I was a teenager and taught on a dirt bike on my best friend’s farm in New Zealand. However in my mind I had been riding since I was a small child. I was fascinated with bikes, especially Harley’s. As I was a girl this fascination was not encouraged.

I am a professional musician who travels the world the whole year. I spend most of the year in India with the rest of my time divided between Europe, the USA and Australia. As well as performing live I also currently work on a music project which supports the visits of His Holiness the Dalai Lama to Australia.

Monique at Khardungla

I own one bike, a Royal Enfield Thunderbird. India is the most awesome place in the world to ride. Initially I thought it would be terrifying. But I soon learnt that riding in India is more like a dance. It is about moving together and watching out for each other. Once you get the hang of riding in India it is the most enjoyable place to ride in the world. As a woman the experience is even more fascinating. The Indians love that I ride a bike. They respect that I am strong enough to handle and it never seems an affront to their masculinity. Instead they are very encouraging and engaging.

My favourite place to ride was Ladakh. I spent 2.5 months riding throughout Ladakh. The scenery was amazing. The people were so kind and friendly and accessible. It was an endless adventure. My favourite thing to do in the whole world is to ride my bike in India. Nothing beats that feeling of freedom.